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Wednesday, 20 April 2016

Style Arc Maddison Top

The Style Arc Maddison Top has become quite popular of late, and I have been persuaded to try it after seeing all the great versions out there, already created. 

Of course, this pattern looks great in stripes, but I used a solid black ponte from my stash to try it out first. I made a few pattern alterations before cutting out. The front neckline was lowered by 2cm at centre front, tapering back to the original neckline at the shoulder darts. I always try to avoid crew necklines as they are never flattering on me. I added 5cm to the length of the front and back pieces to account for my long body shape. This was added in by cutting and spreading the pattern at around the waistline level, and the last alteration was to drop the bust dart point down about 2.5cm to compensate for the effect of gravity. Not all of these alterations were successful.
Style Arc Maddison Top
The description from the Style Arc website: "A great everyday raglan sleeved top with a slight trapeze the body, the wide hem allows this top to fall beautifully. Make this in a stripe to show off all the design lines. This top can be made in a knit or a stretch woven fabric."

As you can see from the side view, the top is not hanging in the most flattering way. I think it may need a full bust adjustment to add some width and length to the front pattern piece, so that it hangs better. (I'm open to suggestions here.) I cut my usual size 12 for this top. 
Altered bust dart point failure.

 I always learn so much when scrutinizing the photos of the garment on me. So much more helpful than just looking in the mirror. Lowering the bust dart point was a complete failure. This alteration was completely unnecessary and I will keep it at the original position for next time. The ponte fabric is quite heavy and this may have dragged the position of the bust dart down. This could have a completely different outcome if a woven fabric was used. 

It looks better from the back. I love the raglan sleeves and the deep hem. The neckline was finished off with a simple wrap around self fabric binding. The skirt is another Colette Mabel, made in a lovely printed Italian Ponte from Knitwit. I have improved the fit of this version by doing a full tummy adjustment. This was easy to do and made a real difference to the fit and hang of the skirt at the front. I will be using this adjustment for any future makes, for sure.

This has been a great outfit for the cooler weather that has finally arrived, despite my fitting issues. I'm sure I will iron them out in the next version.

 Happy Sewing
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22 comments:

  1. barbaraq21 April 2016 at 02:54

    Lovely version! I have made this top twice for summer and like your ponte, too. The pattern has a trapeze shape, so maybe the ponte is a bit too heavy to be "billowing" out. I chuckled at your bust dart modification attempt as I did the same thing, only to rip it out and raise it back to its original placement. I like your lowered neckline a lot.

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    1. Sew, Jean Margaret21 April 2016 at 20:26

      Thanks Barbaraq. It's so annoying when you make pattern alterations only to find out later they were unnecessary. At least I will know for next time. I am pleased with the neckline alteration. It's amazing how a couple of cm can make such a difference.

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  2. fabric epiphanies21 April 2016 at 05:33

    Sorry I cant be of help with the dart but it does look like it needs something. Only a sewer would notice though so I wouldn't stress about it. Being in such practical colour, I am sure it will get lots of wear. It looks really good with the floral skirt.

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    1. Sew, Jean Margaret21 April 2016 at 20:32

      Thanks Andrea. Black goes with lots of things so I will get a lot of wear out of this top. I have more of the floral fabric. I just have to decide what else to make with it.

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  3. Vicki21 April 2016 at 06:48

    how annoying with the bust dart. I think you do need an FBA with the ponte. But it is still very wearable as is. Cute skirt too.

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    1. Sew, Jean Margaret21 April 2016 at 20:37

      Thanks Vicki. I will look into doing an FBA for the next one.

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  4. Anonymous21 April 2016 at 07:28

    I am far from an expert on fitting, but I'd try an FBA too. Like Andrea said, no-one but a sewist will notice. They will just see this great outfit. Thanks for the link through to the full tummy adjustment. I'll be trying that on my next skirt.

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    1. Sew, Jean Margaret21 April 2016 at 20:49

      Thanks for your lovely comment Sewingelle. I will try an FBA for the next one. The full tummy adjustment was a great discovery for me.

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  5. Paola21 April 2016 at 09:39

    I've just made a fail version of the Maddison top. Lots of issues for me with this top - yours looks great by comparison!

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    1. Sew, Jean Margaret21 April 2016 at 20:51

      I'm sorry to hear your Maddison Top was a fail. Mine certainly needs some further adjustment but it has promise.

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  6. Sharon21 April 2016 at 13:51

    It is a great top and will go with a lot of your skirts.

    I say yes to a FBA and if you don't want any more fullness through the body, split the dart, add the FBA amount and then your dart is larger but for me it is only 1.5cm.

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    1. Sew, Jean Margaret21 April 2016 at 20:54

      Thanks Sharon. I think an FBA is definitely the way to go.

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  7. Sue21 April 2016 at 15:43

    Great outfit. No tips here but I do think you will get good use out of both these pieces.

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    1. Sew, Jean Margaret21 April 2016 at 20:56

      Thanks so much Sue. I have some more coordinating fabrics with plans to make more garments to mix and match with these.

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  8. KathyS21 April 2016 at 16:59

    Your top and skirt look lovely together, I like the banded sleeves. No ideas about a FBA though. Thanks for the link to the full tummy adjustment. That I do need :)

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    1. Sew, Jean Margaret21 April 2016 at 21:01

      Thank you Kathy. Wishing you success with the full tummy adjustment. I have been very happy with the results.

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  9. Anonymous22 April 2016 at 10:39

    Your whole outfit is lovely, great colours. A very timely post for me, Ive just cut out a Madison, I probably should have done an FBA, but I was sort of hoping it wouldn't be needed in a knit, we'll see soon ☺. Thanks for the info. about a full tummy adjustment, I haven't heard of it but definitely need it.

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    1. Sew, Jean Margaret22 April 2016 at 20:59

      Thanks Barbara. I look forward to seeing your version of the Maddison Top.

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  10. Sarah Liz22 April 2016 at 17:59

    I empathise with you about the unnecessary alterations - I think we all tend to overthink sometimes. But the darts are not noticeable. I do find that on rectangular bodies (I have one as well) the tops that are more A line or Trapeze do sort of balloon out. And a FBA if taken all the way through may increase that tendency. The skirt is lovely - and the Full Tummy Adjustment is needed here as well, thank you :). Your garden is looking lovely.

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  11. Janine24 April 2016 at 05:01

    I hope you still get to enjoy your top. I admit to not being too fussed about lines and drags in my sewing mainly because I really don't have an idea about fitting ! However the full tummy adjustment link is very useful for me too. Love the skirt as well - I have bought knitwit italian ponte aa well and can vouch for its loveliness.

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    1. Sew, Jean Margaret24 April 2016 at 10:33

      Thanks Janine. I have worn my top quite a few times already, despite the fit issues. I love the skirt too and that Italian printed ponte from Knitwit is great quality.

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