White Coco

After falling in love with all the "Coco's" popping up on so many sewing blogs, I finally weakened and bought the pattern. Here is my test version:

Coco by Tilly and the Buttons

I just love the whole flattering shape of the Coco and the funnel neck is such a fun retro detail. I used some sort of cotton sweater knit that I purchased on sale from Bargain Box Fabrics for $3.00 per metre. This fabric had only a small amount of stretch and almost zero recovery so I had to make allowances for this.

Front View

Based on my bust measurement I made a size 5 with no alterations. I was very pleased with the fit and I wouldn't change anything for my next one, except for the length. I think it is a little too short for me, but would be fine on you younger girls (I am 5 foot 7 inches tall).

Back view

This fabric had a nice amount of drape and hangs quite nicely. To avoid stretching out too much I added some clear elastic to the neckline and the sleeve hems which has given them some much needed stretch recovery. I used some purchased cotton bias tape at the hemline for two reasons: 1. so I didn't have to lose too much length when turning up the hem and 2. to add stability to the hem and avoid stretching out when sewing the hem. This worked really well. 

Sleeve hem

All the hems were stitched using a twin needle, although this detail is difficult to see on this fabric.

Funnel neck detail

 The funnel neck was such a cute feature and so easy to do. Due to fabric constraints I had to cut my funnel neck in two pieces. I measured the length of the front and back necklines on the stitching line and then added seam allowances and cut my funnel neck as two pieces, one front and one back, so that the seam lines matched the shoulder seams.

I will have to wait for the weather to warm up before I get any wear out of this dress, but I have a few ideas for a warmer version, now I know it fits.

Happy Sewing

Style Arc Elle Pants Revisited

After digesting all the helpful comments on my last Style Arc Elle Pants blog post, I have made some more. 

Teal Style Arc Elle Pants

I purchased this lovely teal stretch bengaline from Style Arc. It is very good quality and beautiful to work with. This time, I tried a large calf adjustment. I couldn't find any info on this adjustment in my fitting books so I asked Google and found a wonderful tutorial on Colette Patterns Sewalongs. 

Back Pattern piece with large calf adjustment.

I added 2cm width at the hemline (in line with the grainline) on the back pattern piece. This gives more room at the back calf area without changing the seam lines, so everything still fits back together OK.

Side view

This adjustment has really improved the fit. The pants aren't getting caught up on my calves every time I move now, making them even more comfortable.

Back view

There are still some wrinkles but not as bad as my first pair, now that the fabric can hang better.

Close up of front

The waistband sits lovely and flat. Style Arc recommend using 35mm wide elastic. I used 20mm wide non roll elastic which worked out fine.

Close up back view

I previously raised the waist by 5 cm, but for this pair I lowered it by 1cm just fine tuning the fit. (So for this pair the waist was raised by a total of 4cm from the original pattern). I found that the original pattern was quite low waisted which is fine for the young slim girls out there, but for us more mature ladies it just cuts the muffin top in half...not a pretty look.

Midnight Style Arc Elle Pants

When I joined the Style Arc Membership Club I received this Midnight Stretch Bengaline as a free gift. It was just the right amount to make another pair of Elle pants. These were made exactly the same as the teal pair. Midnight is a very dark navy blue. The colour has a lovely depth and the fabric, like the teal was great quality and beautiful to sew.

Back view

I have styled these Style Arc Elle Pants with my Style Arc Stacie Jean Jacket. I'm really loving these Style Arc patterns and I took full advantage of their great sale recently for Style Arc Club members, so I plan to make quite a few more of their patterns soon.


Happy Sewing

Kielo Wrap Dress for Winter

While trawling through the sewing blogs, I stumbled across The Kielo Wrap Dress by Named, a Finnish clothing pattern label founded by sisters Saara and Laura Huhta. This is a very simple dress, but also quite elegant.

Image from the Named website

Line Drawing

After stealing the idea of making a wintery version of this dress from Busy Lizzie in Brizzy (thanks Lizzie for the inspiration), this is the result:

Front view

I used another piece of my Ponte de Roma purchased from Lincraft during their sale a few months ago. I am wearing it here with my Grainline Archer shirt made last year. These photos were taken after wearing this outfit to work all day.

Using their size chart, I cut a size 42 which was a little smaller than my bust measurement. As I was using a stretch fabric I figured this would be OK, and I was right. The fit in the bodice is good. I shortened the dress at the back slit notch, which has brought it to just below knee length.

Back view

I copied the long hemline shape which dips lower at the sides. Maybe this is to accommodate those ladies with hips, that I am sadly lacking. Not sure if I like this feature. It may look better if it was straight all the way around.

Side view

When bringing the ties to the centre front, they overlapped slightly which made it all a bit bunchy in that area. If I sew this again I may take some off the side seams so that they just meet when tying at the front.

Close up of front ties

The ties are plenty long enough, wrapping right around my waist to tie at the front. I think the most difficult part of the construction of this dress was turning the ties right side out after sewing the seams.

Close up of dart and top stitching

The dart is probably a little high but it works in the Ponte. I really should realise that this is a standard required alteration for me...now that gravity has taken a hold. The neckline and armholes were overlocked and then turned under and top stitched using a twin needle. This is a nice clean finish without added bulk in the Ponte. I am really pleased with how well these openings sit with no gaping at all.

Shaped hemline

Here is a closer view of the shaped hemline. I turned it up twice by 1.5cm and top stitched using a twin needle. The fabric sewed beautifully with no tunnelling that can be an issue with using a twin needle.

I'm a bit on the fence about this pattern. I thought the waist tie would cinch in my waist in a flattering way but I look very rectangular after looking at these photos. My dear partner said I looked like a school girl (I think he was just referring to the grey fabric with the white blouse).

Let me know what you think.


Happy sewing

A Tragic End

I am deeply saddened to inform you of the tragic demise of my Colette Beignet Skirt. We have had a love hate relationship since construction, however we were on good terms just before the accident. Here's some memories to cling onto:

In her infancy, soon after construction.

Performing well during Me Made May 14

After her makeover...a new lease of life

And then tragedy struck...and it's all my fault. I decided to wash my skirt in the washing machine. I used cold water and special wool wash detergent but sadly this is the result:

Skirt after washing

I am shocked at how much this skirt has shrunk. You can see how far the lining is hanging below the hem of the skirt.

I prewashed this fabric (unknown fibre content) before construction to avoid a shrinkage problem. When I washed it the first time after construction it shrunk, which I blogged about in my original post, and I fixed the problem by turning up the hem lining again. I didn't think it would continue to shrink with each wash, especially not at this alarming rate.

Close up of the accident.

I am particularly upset by this tragic event because I have only recently invested quite a bit of time and effort into this skirt, replacing all the buttons. I think I will salvage the buttons and dispose of the remains in the rubbish bin. At least I have some photos to keep the memories alive.

Has anyone else had a shrinking tragedy?

Happy Sewing

Deep Red Peplum Cardi

You may have seen a peak of my McCall's 6844 Deep Red Peplum Cardigan during Me Made May. I have previously made View B in royal blue, but was a little underwhelmed by this pattern, despite it being pattern of the year for 2013 on Pattern Review.

This time I made view C which has a peplum with a shaped hemline. I used this Deep Red Ponte De Roma purchased from Lincraft.

Front view

I lengthened the hemline by 8cm because I thought the original length would not be flattering on my figure, and I am so glad that I did. I am really pleased with this length.

Side View

You can see in the side view how the hemline dips lower at the back. The peplum gives my rectangular figure some much needed curves.

Back view

As before, I made a straight size Medium with no alterations other than increasing the length of the peplum. I also interfaced the front band which has made it sit much better and I regret skipping this step in my blue version.

I interfaced the front band.

The peplum is really just a circle skirt joined to the bodice. The pattern instructions did include a great tip for hemming the peplum. First stitch 6mm from the lower edge of the garment, using long machine stitches (as you would for gathering). Then turn up 1.5cm hem at lower edge of garment, turning in 6mm on raw edge and tucking under. You can then use a pin to pull the gathering thread to ease in the fullness, and press (pinning as you go).

Here you can see the loop of the gathering thread that has been pulled to ease in the fullness.

This was a very long hemline.

The hem was top stitched using the width of my presser foot as a guide. You will notice that I have moved the needle over to one side to get the desired distance from the edge of the garment for the stitching line, while still being able to use the edge of the presser foot as a guide.

Close up of side

Close up of peplum skirt.

Inside view. Seams were all finished on the overlocker.

Overall I am very happy with this cardigan so McCall's 6844 has redeemed itself. I can now see why so many have raved about this pattern. Just keep in mind that the sleeves are very fitted and will need to be widened if you intend to wear anything with sleeves under it. I would recommend interfacing the front band and securing it in a few places with a few hand stitches so that it sits properly. And I would also recommend lengthening the peplum on version C so that it sits at a more flattering position.

Happy Sewing

Me Made May'14 Final Roundup

Phew!! I made it to the end of Me Made May'14 staying true to my pledge of wearing at least one "me made" garment per day for the month of May.

Day Twentysix
Monday 26/5/14

Day 26

Back to work today wearing my Style Arc Terry Tie Cardi in marle grey ponte. Ollie just had to be in the photo too.

Day Twentyseven
Tuesday 27/5/14

Day 27

I am wearing three "me made" garments today. My red Style Arc Nina Cardi made pre blog, my zebra print New Look 6470 Cowl Top and hot off the sewing machine (made last night) my new Style Arc Barb Pants (not yet blogged).

Day Twentyeight
Wednesday 28/5/14

Day 28

Two "me Made" garments today...McCalls 6844 cardigan and my new Style Arc Barb Pants this time worn tucked into my long boots.

Day Twentynine
Thursday 29/5/14

Day 29

Another repeat of my Style Arc Kristen Dress. Tried to change the look by wearing some patterned tights and my new Mary Janes. Ollie just loves joining in.

Day Thirty
Friday 30/5/14

Day 30

The end of another working week and I'm wearing New Look 6071 in purple ponte. I called in to visit Mum on the way home from work and took full advantage of her beautiful pink climbing roses still flowering so close to winter.

Day Thirtyone
Saturday 31/5/14

Day 31

A day spent at home doing domestic chores. I am wearing my Style Arc Elle Pants and my Cation Designs Dolman Sleeved top. We went down to the local Chinese Restaurant for dinner tonight and I changed into my Style Arc Issy Top.

Day 31 Evening

Well here I am at the end of Me Made May'14, a little sad that it's over, but glad that I don't have to do the daily photos any more. It has been a fun experience, exploring new ways to wear my "me mades" and identifying gaps in my wardrobe. This has resulted in a huge surge in my sewing mojo and I have probably completed more garments this month than ever before. Let's hope it continues. 

I have decided not to go back to wearing my work uniform, even though it is easier, I have quite enjoyed the challenge of working out outfits to wear to work. It just means I need to be organised the night before. 

Me made garments worn during May totalled 52 (with quite a few repeats included). This far exceeded my pledge of wearing 31 (one garment per day). I have surprised myself with these results and I will have to set my challenge much higher for next year. Thanks to all the participants of Me Made May'14 for sharing their progress and a big thanks to Zoe for organising the event.

Me Made May'14 Week One

Me Made May'14 Week Two

Me Made May'14 Week Three

Me Made May'14 Week Four


Happy Sewing

The Terry Tie Cardi from Style Arc

I have been sewing quite a few practical garments lately, which have been filling a gap in my wardrobe. My latest effort is the Terry Tie Cardi from Style Arc.

Style Arc Terry Tie Cardi

A stylish and comfortable cardi with shoulder tucks and front tie detail.This is one of their older patterns and it gives a nice flattering silhouette.

Style Arc Terry Tie Cardi Line Drawing.

I used a marle grey ponte de roma purchased from Lincraft. This was probably a bit heavier than the fabric they recommend, but it gave the result I was after. This is a nice warm cardi but it still has enough drape to work as designed. I cut a straight size 12 with no alterations.

Front

The ties are sewn into the front darts. When tied together they pull the fronts together creating draping folds of fabric at the front, and nipping in the waist line. The centre fronts also hang lower and this also adds to the flattering effect.

I had terrible trouble trying to work out the pleats at the shoulders. The instructions for this are very sparse, and you are really only given a series of notches across the front shoulder. I ended up making 5 small pleats about 6mm wide which worked out ok and the front shoulder length matched the back shoulder length. I did quite a bit of unpicking before I figured this out. The rest of the construction was easy and came together without any problems.

Back view

Even though the back has no darts it still has some shape. The length was fine on me. I did end up with a bit of a bubble effect at the back neck. The back neckline is finished off with some binding. There is a pattern piece for a vilene stay which I didn't use. I was concerned that the neckline might stretch out without this, but it seems to be a little tight rather than stretched.

Hem line

The hems were all finished off with a twin needle which sewed beautifully on the ponte. My only real disappointment with this pattern is the front opening edges. The raw edge is folded back 1.5cm and secured at the top in the shoulder seam, and at the bottom in the hemline. This means it is unsecured all the way down the front. In the photo above you can see where it has flopped forward, revealing the raw edge. I do plan to fix this by securing it with some Steam-a-seam lite when I can buy some. All my local stockists are having trouble getting any in at the moment.

This has been a great practical addition to my wardrobe and I am sure I will get a lot of wear out of it.

Happy Sewing