Style Arc Sammi Pants Success

Continuing on with my quest for sewing pants that fit, I have tried the Style Arc Sammi Pants.

Style Arc Sammi Pants

I made a straight size 12 with no alterations. The fabric was purchased from Spotlight a few months ago. It was labelled as Panama stretch suiting in Pewter. It really has no stretch to speak of and is very synthetic. It looked like it would be hard wearing and good for a pair of work pants.

To my utter amazement, these pants fitted me without any alterations to the pattern at all. Here is the description from the Style Arc website:

SAMMI WOVEN PANT:This is basic pant woven pant which sits just below the waist line, featuring a buttoned waistband which is contoured and a fly front.  A slight boot leg makes this pant very flattering.

This description is spot on. These are basic, but comfortable pants with a flattering cut.

Back view

I am wearing them here with my Style Arc Nina Cardigan blogged about here.

Close up of front showing fly and waistband with buttons.

Close up of back showing darts.

These were plenty long enough. There is a 4cm hem allowance on the pattern, but I had to take them up 7cm and that's to wear them with high heel shoes. I am 172cm tall (5'8"). I hand stitched the hem so it would be invisible.

Here are some photos of the inside:

The inside of the waistband was turned under and secured by stitching in the ditch from the right side. I usually have trouble doing this, but this fabric behaved very well.

I used a metal trouser zip and I followed the Style Arc directions for inserting the fly. I did have to read over them several times and scratch my head a bit but they finally made sense and it turned out really neat.

Underside view of fly. All seams were sewn on my sewing machine and then finished off with the overlocker.

The only issue I had with the construction of these pants was that I attached the interfacing to the waistband facing instead of the waistband. I didn't realise my mistake until I had completely assembled the waistband and went to attach it to the pants. As the two front pieces are different lengths, my error meant that the waistband was back to front. I had to recut and reconstruct the entire waistband (so annoying) but I have made a note on the pattern for next time.

I am pretty happy with my Sammi Pants.

I was running late for work so these photos were a bit rushed as you can tell by the look on my face.

Happy Sewing

Trying Out The Moss Mini

I have noticed quite a few Grainline Studio Moss Mini's popping up on Pattern Review and lots of sewing blogs lately. As usual, I am a bit late to the party, but still keen to give it a go. Here is my version of View B: with the hem band.

I am wearing it with my Grainline Studio Archer Shirt previously blogged about here. I don't normally wear shirts tucked in or finishing at my waist as I like to hide my thickening waistline, but I thought I had better show off the details of the skirt properly.

Most unflattering photo, sorry.

I made a size 12 with no alterations. This was based on my waist measurement when I am at my ideal weight (which is considerably less than what it is now). This pattern must run large because to my surprise it fits me quite well.

I am really happy with the length. Not too short at all. I used a cotton drill purchased from Spotlight. This was probably a bit lightweight for this skirt. I have some denim and some cotton canvas that I will use for future versions.

Pockets

Back yoke wrinkles.

For future versions I may remove a wedge from the top of the back yoke. There seems to be excess fabric bunching up here.

I had a big problem with the waistband length. It was about 5cm too short for the waistline of the skirt. I rechecked the pattern to make sure I had traced off the size 12, and I had. I don't know if this is an error with the pattern or I may have stretched out the waistline during construction. I would be very interested to know if anyone else has had this problem? In order to fix this I ran a couple of rows of gathering stitches around the top of the skirt and gathered it up to fit the waistband. This is only slightly noticeable, but I found it very annoying. At least I didn't throw it in the corner in disgust.

Fly front and Snap (press stud)

This was my first fly front ever. I found the instructions quite good, although I had to do a fair bit of unpicking and resewing to get the zip in exactly the right position. I think I could do this a lot neater next time (now I know what I am doing).

Back Yoke and Top Stitching.

Funny how that excess fabric has disappeared when the skirt is on my dress form and not on me. I could have done a better job matching the yoke at the centre back seam.

Top stitching on Hem Band

I love the hem band. I have seen versions without the hem band, that have been lengthened, and they just don't look as nice. I think it is a really nice design feature and well worth the extra effort.

Side seam showing pocket .

The pocket is designed so it is easy to put your hand in but does not gape excessively. A very nice feature. I finished off the raw edges with my overlocker with purple thread. This was the closest matching colour I had. I am slowly building up a variety of colours for my overlocker, but it is a slow process.

Pocket linings and hem band facing.

The pocket lining and hem band facings are one of my favourite features of this skirt. It's almost a shame they are not visible from the outside.

Inside details including fly.

In conclusion, I enjoyed the process of making this skirt and learn't some new skills along the way. I got a pleasant surprise at the end to find out that it fits me too (when it really shouldn't). Must remember to downsize the next one as I have started my diet healthy eating and get fit campaign. Wish me luck and lots of will power.


Happy sewing