Kielo Wrap Dress for Winter

While trawling through the sewing blogs, I stumbled across The Kielo Wrap Dress by Named, a Finnish clothing pattern label founded by sisters Saara and Laura Huhta. This is a very simple dress, but also quite elegant.

Image from the Named website

Line Drawing

After stealing the idea of making a wintery version of this dress from Busy Lizzie in Brizzy (thanks Lizzie for the inspiration), this is the result:

Front view

I used another piece of my Ponte de Roma purchased from Lincraft during their sale a few months ago. I am wearing it here with my Grainline Archer shirt made last year. These photos were taken after wearing this outfit to work all day.

Using their size chart, I cut a size 42 which was a little smaller than my bust measurement. As I was using a stretch fabric I figured this would be OK, and I was right. The fit in the bodice is good. I shortened the dress at the back slit notch, which has brought it to just below knee length.

Back view

I copied the long hemline shape which dips lower at the sides. Maybe this is to accommodate those ladies with hips, that I am sadly lacking. Not sure if I like this feature. It may look better if it was straight all the way around.

Side view

When bringing the ties to the centre front, they overlapped slightly which made it all a bit bunchy in that area. If I sew this again I may take some off the side seams so that they just meet when tying at the front.

Close up of front ties

The ties are plenty long enough, wrapping right around my waist to tie at the front. I think the most difficult part of the construction of this dress was turning the ties right side out after sewing the seams.

Close up of dart and top stitching

The dart is probably a little high but it works in the Ponte. I really should realise that this is a standard required alteration for me...now that gravity has taken a hold. The neckline and armholes were overlocked and then turned under and top stitched using a twin needle. This is a nice clean finish without added bulk in the Ponte. I am really pleased with how well these openings sit with no gaping at all.

Shaped hemline

Here is a closer view of the shaped hemline. I turned it up twice by 1.5cm and top stitched using a twin needle. The fabric sewed beautifully with no tunnelling that can be an issue with using a twin needle.

I'm a bit on the fence about this pattern. I thought the waist tie would cinch in my waist in a flattering way but I look very rectangular after looking at these photos. My dear partner said I looked like a school girl (I think he was just referring to the grey fabric with the white blouse).

Let me know what you think.


Happy sewing

Deep Red Peplum Cardi

You may have seen a peak of my McCall's 6844 Deep Red Peplum Cardigan during Me Made May. I have previously made View B in royal blue, but was a little underwhelmed by this pattern, despite it being pattern of the year for 2013 on Pattern Review.

This time I made view C which has a peplum with a shaped hemline. I used this Deep Red Ponte De Roma purchased from Lincraft.

Front view

I lengthened the hemline by 8cm because I thought the original length would not be flattering on my figure, and I am so glad that I did. I am really pleased with this length.

Side View

You can see in the side view how the hemline dips lower at the back. The peplum gives my rectangular figure some much needed curves.

Back view

As before, I made a straight size Medium with no alterations other than increasing the length of the peplum. I also interfaced the front band which has made it sit much better and I regret skipping this step in my blue version.

I interfaced the front band.

The peplum is really just a circle skirt joined to the bodice. The pattern instructions did include a great tip for hemming the peplum. First stitch 6mm from the lower edge of the garment, using long machine stitches (as you would for gathering). Then turn up 1.5cm hem at lower edge of garment, turning in 6mm on raw edge and tucking under. You can then use a pin to pull the gathering thread to ease in the fullness, and press (pinning as you go).

Here you can see the loop of the gathering thread that has been pulled to ease in the fullness.

This was a very long hemline.

The hem was top stitched using the width of my presser foot as a guide. You will notice that I have moved the needle over to one side to get the desired distance from the edge of the garment for the stitching line, while still being able to use the edge of the presser foot as a guide.

Close up of side

Close up of peplum skirt.

Inside view. Seams were all finished on the overlocker.

Overall I am very happy with this cardigan so McCall's 6844 has redeemed itself. I can now see why so many have raved about this pattern. Just keep in mind that the sleeves are very fitted and will need to be widened if you intend to wear anything with sleeves under it. I would recommend interfacing the front band and securing it in a few places with a few hand stitches so that it sits properly. And I would also recommend lengthening the peplum on version C so that it sits at a more flattering position.

Happy Sewing

The Terry Tie Cardi from Style Arc

I have been sewing quite a few practical garments lately, which have been filling a gap in my wardrobe. My latest effort is the Terry Tie Cardi from Style Arc.

Style Arc Terry Tie Cardi

A stylish and comfortable cardi with shoulder tucks and front tie detail.This is one of their older patterns and it gives a nice flattering silhouette.

Style Arc Terry Tie Cardi Line Drawing.

I used a marle grey ponte de roma purchased from Lincraft. This was probably a bit heavier than the fabric they recommend, but it gave the result I was after. This is a nice warm cardi but it still has enough drape to work as designed. I cut a straight size 12 with no alterations.

Front

The ties are sewn into the front darts. When tied together they pull the fronts together creating draping folds of fabric at the front, and nipping in the waist line. The centre fronts also hang lower and this also adds to the flattering effect.

I had terrible trouble trying to work out the pleats at the shoulders. The instructions for this are very sparse, and you are really only given a series of notches across the front shoulder. I ended up making 5 small pleats about 6mm wide which worked out ok and the front shoulder length matched the back shoulder length. I did quite a bit of unpicking before I figured this out. The rest of the construction was easy and came together without any problems.

Back view

Even though the back has no darts it still has some shape. The length was fine on me. I did end up with a bit of a bubble effect at the back neck. The back neckline is finished off with some binding. There is a pattern piece for a vilene stay which I didn't use. I was concerned that the neckline might stretch out without this, but it seems to be a little tight rather than stretched.

Hem line

The hems were all finished off with a twin needle which sewed beautifully on the ponte. My only real disappointment with this pattern is the front opening edges. The raw edge is folded back 1.5cm and secured at the top in the shoulder seam, and at the bottom in the hemline. This means it is unsecured all the way down the front. In the photo above you can see where it has flopped forward, revealing the raw edge. I do plan to fix this by securing it with some Steam-a-seam lite when I can buy some. All my local stockists are having trouble getting any in at the moment.

This has been a great practical addition to my wardrobe and I am sure I will get a lot of wear out of it.

Happy Sewing

A Stylish Blue Cardi

I have jumped on the bandwagon and purchased McCall's 6844 which was voted Pattern of the Year for 2013 on Pattern Review. There have been so many favourable reviews of this pattern that I thought I had better see what all the fuss is about.

McCall's 6844 View B

I decided to make view B which is the longer length without the peplum as I thought this would be more work appropriate. I used a royal blue ponte de roma purchased from Lincraft when it was on sale for $10.49 per metre. 

I cut a size medium which has turned out slightly too wide across my shoulders, although I'm not sure I could get away with a small. 

It has nice shaping down the the side seams which is quite flattering, but looking at this photo it make my backside look huge.

The sleeves are very tight which makes it suitable to wear over sleeveless tops or very thin sleeved tops only.

As most reviewers advised, I did not interface the collar. It sits very well around the neck but then it just wants to flop forward. I tried to fix this by hand stitching it down at the hemline. This still makes it hang funny. I think I will hand stitch it down in a couple of more places further up towards the waistline.

Topstitching.

I added the top stitching around the collar as instructed, which anchors down the seam allowance and gives a nice neat finish on the inside. I also sewed the sleeves in flat.

Well...to tell the truth, I have been a little underwhelmed with this pattern. Maybe my expectations were a little high due to all the hype out there in the blogosphere?

But in saying that, I'm sure I will get a lot of wear out of this cardi and I just love the colour. I have already cut out View C so stay tuned for another review coming soon.

Happy Sewing

Floral Denim Jean Jacket

I fell in love with this gorgeous floral stretch denim the minute I set eyes on it on the Lincraft Website. I already had the perfect pattern...Style Arc's Stacie Jean Jacket in the pattern stash.

Gorgeous Floral Stretch Denim from Lincraft.

I have already made this jacket in a plain denim blogged about here. The only changes I made to this jacket were to lengthen the sleeves.

I agonised over laying out the pattern on the fabric. I ended up tracing extra copies of all the pattern pieces so that I could cut the jacket out on a single layer and better visualise how the pattern was going to look once all the panels were joined.

Laying out the pattern on a single layer of fabric.

I think I spent more time laying out the pattern than it took to sew up the jacket.

Front open

Back open

The size 12 was a perfect fit and after lengthening the sleeves by 5cm they are the perfect length too.

Front buttoned up

Back buttoned up

I did the top stitching with a green thread that matched the greens in the floral pattern. This time I just used a single needle to top stitch (on the last jacket I used a twin needle) and slightly lengthened the stitch.

Top stitching detail on pocket flap

I was a little disappointed with how the top stitching turned out along the seams. I was using the width of my presser foot as a guide. This was just a couple of millimetres too wide and the stitches didn't always catch the seam allowance underneath. This made the top stitching look a little wonky in places. The weave of this fabric is quite loose and it made unpicking very difficult. The stitches just sank right into the fabric and I was worried that I would cut a hole in it. After unpicking two whole rows of top stitching down the centre fronts (that took forever), I thought I had better leave "well enough" alone.

Collar and front facing.

The first time I made this jacket, I had trouble with attaching the collar. It only seemed long enough to reach from the inside edge of the facing on each side. This time I staystitched the neck edge to avoid any stretching out of the fabric and I was able to attach the collar at the centre point of each front facing, which is how it should be, I think.

Button, buttonholes and front panel pattern matching (woops, see the mistake)

After all my exhaustive efforts with the cutting out of the jacket, I have made a very silly mistake. The pattern matches beautifully across the front centre panels now, but what happens when the jacket is buttoned up?   #%*$

Love the fold back cuff.

Overall, I really pleased with my new jacket. It's fairly light weight so I may have to wait for next spring to wear it.

Happy Sewing

Floral Anna Maxi

After seeing Sew Busy Lizzy's Anna Dresses from By Hand London, I was sold on this pattern. You can see her versions here First Anna , Second Anna , Third Anna. I bought the pattern but then it sat unused for quite a while because I couldn't find the ideal fabric I had pictured using. I traced off size US10/UK14 from the shoulders down to the bottom of the armhole and then graded up to a size US12/UK16 at the waist. I cut the skirt at size US12/UK16 because I didn't want it to be tight across the tummy region.

Photo of Pattern envelope.

Eventually I found this fabric on the Lincraft Online Store. As you can see, the photo of the fabric was very blurry so I was taking a bit of a risk ordering it. However, I was very happy with the print when it arrived. The spun rayon is ideal for this pattern. It's so soft and drapes beautifully to create a very feminine dress. It was OK to sew, but keeping the pins in the fabric was a bit of a nightmare.

I did make a muslin of the bodice to check fit as I had read that a lot of people had trouble with the neckline gaping. I'm so glad that I did because it was easy to adjust the pattern to eliminate the gaping. I used this tutorial by Ginger Makes to adjust the back neckline, and then I used the same process to eliminate the gaping at the front neckline as well. I pinched out 2cm at each side of the back neckline and 1.5cm at each side of the front neckline. I also stay stitched the neckline as soon as possible after cutting to avoid the fabric stretching during handling.

No neckline gaping

This dress is super long. I cut off 9cm from the length and I am wearing this with very high heels. (I'm 5' 7"). 

The neckline is finished off with facings as instructed in the pattern. These are not interfaced and are very floppy. I under stitched to try and avoid them rolling out. (This is not mentioned in the instructions). They do suggest top stitching but I didn't want that look for this soft feminine dress. I also anchored the facings to the shoulder seams with a few hand stitches to keep them in place. This method has been successful.

Closer view of front bodice pleats

Back neckline and invisible zip.

I didn't add the thigh high split to this dress so it made construction a little simpler. I finished off all the seams with my overlocker in a cream coloured thread which I felt was quite neat, as they would not be seen at all while wearing the dress. I simply turned twice and top stitched narrow hems on the sleeves and the skirt.

I hope this railing doesn't break.

This fabric was a bit transparent so I wore a nude coloured slip underneath.

I added my denim jacket (store bought) for warmth as it was a little chilly tonight. I think it gave the dress a nice casual vibe.

Credit for these lovely photos all goes to my very patient partner who actually specializes in Wedding Photography. You can see his work here Photique Photography.

In closing, I must share what happened after these photos were taken. We went into town for dinner at one of our favourite restaurants. As the waitress seated us she complimented me on my dress. When I told her that I made it myself she was genuinely amazed and gushed about how pretty and feminine it was. This really made my night. I guess that's just one of the rewards of sewing your own clothes. So satisfying.

And, by the way this is not the last you will be seeing of this pattern. I have the next one cut out already...but this next one will be quite different.

Happy Sewing