Maria Denmark Edith in Blue

As I was rushing out the door on my way to work this morning, I managed to talk my darling husband into putting on his photographer's hat and taking a few shots of my third attempt at the Maria Denmark Edith Dress. 

You can read about my earlier attempts here and here. As the saying goes "third time's the charm". I am really happy with both the fit and the fabric for this one.

The fabric was purchased locally at Patchwork on the Bay. It is a lovely soft 100% cotton chambray. The colour is a lovely blue with black undertones. The bright blue threads can be seen along the selvedge. This was a lovely fabric to work with. It sewed and pressed beautifully... a very well behaved fabric which certainly added to the pleasure of sewing.

My pattern alterations can be seen much clearer in this version with the plain fabric. It was rather difficult to see the details of dart placement etc in my second version with the jungle inspired print.

I only had 2.5 metres of this fabric (112cm wide) so I had to piece the self made bias binding together to finish off the kimono sleeves. This worked out fine and I'm glad I went to the extra effort to do this.

I found these blue buttons at the same shop that I purchased the fabric from. They are a perfect match and the shop owner even threw in an extra button, no charge, as it was the last one left in the tube. This could come in handy if I ever lose one. Love the service at Patchwork on the Bay. I did some research on which direction button holes should be sewn and I discovered that garments with a button band usually have vertical buttonholes as there is not enough room to make horizontal buttonholes. That made complete sense to me, but this dress doesn't have a button band, it has a generous facing that allows plenty of room for horizontal buttonholes. I thought horizontal buttonholes would be safer...less likely for any wardrobe malfunctions if the buttons are put under any strain.

I have had some fun accessorising with different coloured necklaces and scarves to change the look. I think the blue is a little plain on it's own and benefits from a splash of contrasting colour. Very happy with this one!

Happy Sewing

An Edith Dress for Jungle January

After my initial attempt at the Edith Blouse and Dress pattern by Maria Denmark here I was enthusiastic to try again with a few changes. I purchased a jungle inspired print from the bargain shelf at my local Bargain Box Fabrics for only $5.00 per metre. It was some sort of cotton? I think, with a lovely drape. Perfect for Jungle January.

As I noted after making the blouse, I made a few changes to the pattern. Firstly, I retraced the pattern in the bigger size B44 ( and added 1.5cm seam allowances). I hope I didn't mislead people in my last post regarding the sizing of this pattern. I think the pattern corresponds well to the sizing chart, I was just in denial about my actual size. As a side note regarding fabric requirements, Maria only provides fabric requirements for 140cm wide fabric. I used 112cm wide fabric and I cut the blouse easily out of 1.5m and the dress out of 2.5m. (This did not allow for making bias binding).

In order to address the issues of the bust darts being too high and the armholes being too small I did a very simple alteration to the pattern pieces. I simply slashed the pattern horizontally above the bust darts and through the armholes and spread it by 2cm.

I also cut off 7cm at the hemline to allow the hem to finish above my knee. 

I am really happy with the fit now. 

Sorry about the wrinkles but these photos were taken after wearing the dress all day at work.

I did have enough fabric to make some bias binding to finish off the sleeves. 

The darts at the back shoulder create a nice fit.

I used white thread for the construction and top stitching. I did think about using black thread to sew the buttonholes because I was using black buttons, but I am glad I went with white as they are quite unobtrusive and disappear into the print of the fabric.

I turned the hem up 1.5cm twice and top stitched. This is a really comfortable dress and I am so glad I tweaked the fit to make it work for me. Well worth the effort.

This jungle print is certainly something I wouldn't normally wear...not really my colours, but I am pleased with the finished result. I already have another Edith cut out in a completely different fabric for a totally different look, and I have a few more blouses planned as well.

It has been fun to participate in Jungle January too.

Many thanks to my daughter for taking these photos for me.


Happy Sewing

Maria Denmark's Edith Blouse: A Wearable Muslin

After admiring the Edith Blouse and Dress out there in blogland, I have finally had a go at making my own. I loved Paola's dresses at La Sartora here and here and Heather's blouse from Handmade by Heather B here. Let's just call this a wearable muslin.

This is a PDF pattern, but I must say the pattern tiles fitted together much better than any other PDF patterns I have tried. My only gripe being that you have to add your own seam allowances. I found this just another tedious step that certainly added a lot of time to the process. You have to print the pattern, tape it together, trace off the required size and then add seam allowances. I don't understand why they are not added in the first place. Imagine how many hours are wasted if you added up the time it takes each individual person to complete this extra step, when it could have been included in the pattern. As you can probably tell, I was very annoyed.

Anyway, getting back to the blouse...the style really appealed to me. Fitted, but not overly fitted and no sleeves to set in. I thought this would make a great blouse to wear to work.

I thought I would start with the blouse to get the fit sorted, before I tried the dress. I bought some cheap pink poplin from my local Bargain Box Fabrics specifically for this and I cut a size B42 with 1.5cm seam allowances. I did add 5cm extra length at the hemline because I prefer to wear my tops a little longer. After sewing all the darts (8 in total) I decided I would just machine baste the shoulder and side seams to check the fit. I am so glad that I had the forethought to do this because it sure made the unpicking a lot less painful. This size was way too small. I don't know what I was thinking when I cut this size. Maybe I was thinking it would be like the Big Four patterns which have loads of unnecessary ease. I almost binned it at this stage until I realised I had added quite generous seam allowances so maybe it could be saved. I proceeded, with a new determination to make it fit.

After unpicking the basted seams, I scooped out about a cm from the bottom of the armhole as these were very tight. The shoulder seams were re sewn with a scant 6mm seam allowance which effectively added another cm of room to the length of the blouse. I decided to finish off the sleeve hem with some purchased bias binding. (I didn't have enough fabric to make matching bias binding). I did this step before sewing the side seams. The curve at the bottom of the armhole is quite tight and I thought this would be quite difficult to attach the bias binding in the round. Then I sewed the side seams with a scant 6mm seam allowance, effectively adding another 4cm of room to the width of the blouse. I was careful to line up the seam evenly at the underarm to create a nice neat finish. To stop the seam allowance peaking out at the underarm, I fold the tail of the overlocking threads under the seam allowance and then stitch the seam allowance down for about a cm to keep everything in place.

Another quick try on and I decided I could definitely make it wearable. This is actually quite an easy blouse to sew. None of the techniques required are terribly hard and I was enjoying the sewing process. I attached the collar and the facing and all was looking good. I must have started to rush as I could see the end in sight...a bit like a horse bolting for home, because I got careless. 

I was grading and clipping the seam allowance after attaching the facing...snip snip snip *#%@! I had snipped two little slits in the back of the blouse. I had invested too much time and effort into this blouse to abandon it now. What to do??? The slits were right at the top of the back of the blouse, almost covered by the collar on the outside and totally covered by the facing on the inside. My solution was to iron a small circle of fusible interfacing over the slits on the inside. So far they have held together and it has been through the wash twice now.

I made the buttonholes as close to the edge of the front as possible and positioned the buttons to provide as much room as possible. When sewing the hem I curved it up at the side seam. I thought this would look more flattering than a straight hem all the way around. The fit is still a little too close. The bust darts are too high but it's passable...a wearable muslin.

I have a renewed enthusiasm to try this pattern again. Notes for next time: 

• Cut the larger size
• Add 2cm length to blouse by cutting and spreading approx halfway between shoulder seam and top of front darts. (Do this to front, back and facing pattern pieces).This will do two things: lower the darts by 2cm and add an extra 2cm to the armhole depth.
• Add 3cm of length at the hemline.
• Curve hemline up at side seams.

Looking forward to making a much better fitting Edith soon.

Happy Sewing

Perfecting the Scout Tee

Here is my third attempt at making the Grainline Studio Scout Woven Tee. The other two attempts have been blogged about here.

Front

I have tweaked the pattern slightly to improve the drape of the top at the front. I lengthened the front piece at the hem line, at the centre front by about 3cm and tapered it back to the original length at the side seams. This actually gave the bottom front piece quite a curved edge but it looks straight when worn.

Side view

As you can see from the side view, the hem line is hanging evenly all the way around.

Back view

I used a spun rayon purchased from Spotlight in a plain cream colour. It is a little sheer so I am wearing a camisole underneath. It drapes beautifully and I can see this being a very handy layering garment in my wardrobe.

Satin binding at the neckline

This time I bound the neckline with cream satin bias binding. It gives the top a touch of luxury and dresses up the plain cream fabric.

Repair turned into a design feature.

The first time I wore this top, I accidentally caught it on a wire fence and tore a small hole in it near the hemline. I used the same satin bias binding to repair the hole and now I have a "design feature". 

I'm really happy that I have perfected the fit of the Scout Woven Tee for me. I predict there will be lots more Scouts coming up in my sewing future. Such a great little pattern.

Happy Sewing

Tropical Tank Top

It's been a very busy week with not a lot of time for sewing, however I did manage to finish my first version of the Grainline Studio Tiny Pocket Tank. 

The fabric is a lovely tropical print spun rayon purchased from Spotlight. It has a lot of drape and was ideal for this loose summery top. I didn't add the pocket as I thought there was enough going on with this busy print.

I wanted a close fit through the neckline, shoulders and armholes, so I cut a size 8 (should be a size 12 according to my bust measurement) and did some adjustments. Using Sarah Veblen's The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting I did a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) of 2.5cm. I also lengthened the top by 6cm as I wanted it to cover my behind and be a little more tunic like. I stay stitched the neckline and armholes as soon as possible to avoid stretching these areas. After the front and back were joined, at the shoulders and side seams I had a quick try on to check the fit. The underarms felt a little tight so I scooped out approximately 1 cm from the lower half of each arm hole.

I am quite pleased with the fit I achieved with my adjustments. I will try a few more tweaks for the next one.

As you can see in the photo above, the bust dart is too high. For the next one I will try lowering it by a couple of cm. I would also like to try a shorter version with some side seam shaping so it doesn't hang so loosely.

I used purchased lime green bias binding to bind the neckline and armholes. I didn't have enough fabric left over to make the binding. Although it was a bit stiff it did work out OK.

I'm really happy with the fit in the back as well. No gaping and great backside cover. I also like the slightly shaped hemline.

Perfect outfit for date night...dining al fresco at a lovely little restaurant by the river on a very warm summer evening.

Happy Sewing

A Shapely Scout Tee

During my Christmas holidays I managed to get a little sewing done. 

Second attempt at Scout Tee

I have been keen to try Grainline Studio's Scout Tee after my last attempt was less than pleasing. I had made a size 12 and graded down to a size 8 at the hip based on my measurements and the Grainline size chart, but it turned out very roomy and boxy. It is OK tucked in but looks awful left out.

First attempt at Scout Tee

For my second attempt, I started with size 10. I added a lot of shaping to the sides. I kept the side measurements the same at the base of the armhole and at the hem. I curved the side seams in by 3cm at my narrowest point (near the lengthen/shorten line), on each side seam (both front and back pattern pieces), using my french curve ruler to get a nice smooth curve.

Size 10 with side shaping.

I also lengthened the Scout by 2cm. I think I will lengthen it even more for the next one. I must have a long torso.

Back view

Side view

It hangs a bit weird at the front hemline. I'm hoping that lengthening it further will fix this issue. I love the fit at the neck and shoulders. It's just amazing that it fits so well in a woven fabric with no darts. I picked up this fabric on sale at Spotlight quite a while ago. It is very light and drapes well, but creases terribly. Not sure of the composition, but I suspect it is a rayon. I love the bright cheerful print.

Neckline finished with self bias binding.

I even made my own bias binding using my Clover bias tape maker. I think it turned out ok, considering this is a new technique for me.

I have a few tropical print rayons sitting in my stash just waiting to be turned into Scout tees, now that I have worked out the fit, (or maybe Tiny Pocket Tanks).

Happy Sewing