My First 'Tunic Bible' Dress

My dear son gave me a copy of The Tunic Bible for Christmas 2016. It's a beautiful book filled with all sorts of ideas for making a tunic style top or dress, based on the one multi-sized pattern (which is provided in the book). There are loads of gorgeous photos and a gallery of garments made by some of my favourite sewing bloggers.

It has taken me an awful long time to finally try out this pattern, but I am so glad that I did. I cut a size Medium, based on my measurements, but I did have to run the side seams in to get the fit I wanted. The book does suggest to go down a size if using a knit, so I will do that next time.

The fabric is a poly/spandex knit from Knitwit which I purchased back in their summer sale. It must have sold out as I can't see it on the website today. I was immediately drawn to the fresh and vibrant colours of the print.

I used the front pattern piece with the scoop neckline, finished off with a knit binding, as instructed on page 84. I was a little disappointed that the back pattern piece only had one neckline option, which did not match up with the front scoop neckline, so I had to draw that in myself. The suggested length of the knit band worked out perfectly in this fabric, although it wanted to curl along the edges and made applying it to the neckline a little tedious. But it all worked out well in the end.

I sewed the optional vertical darts in the back which gave a lovely shape to the dress. The front has bust darts which were too high for my bust line, but it's not too noticeable in this busy print thankfully. I plan to lower the bust darts by about 2cm for my next version. I cut the sleeves off at the 'ruffle cuff line' on the pattern, but instead of adding the ruffle cuffs, I drafted my own half circle cuffs using the circle skirt app from By Hand London based on the sleeves from Vogue 8945 which I made last year. The sleeves are self lined which gives them a lovely weight and neat finish. There are no hems or raw edges visible.

Wishing you all a very happy and blessed Easter, and hopefully a little sewing time too.

Happy sewing

Jean

A Modified Coco Dress for July's MAGAM

July's theme for MAGAM (make a garment a month) is Seasonal Stashbuster. I outlined my plans on IG earlier in the month: 

"I am planning to sew this lovely tartan double knit from my stash into a winter dress, loosely based on the Tilly and the Buttons Coco Dress. I will reduce the flare of the skirt, add vertical darts at the back, add a bias cut split lapped collar and bias cut patch pockets. Hope it turns out as good as it looks in my head." Well, here is the completed dress:

It has turned out just as I imagined, apart from the lack of plaid matching of the sleeves to the body of the dress...woops. I somehow forgot this detail at the cutting out stage. At least the sleeves match each other. I did all the cutting out in a single layer so I could line up the stripes. The tartan double knit (from Spotlight) had only been in my stash for a few weeks and I was originally planning to make a casual winter top, but after washing it I felt it was more suited to a dress, and this is the eighth time I have made up the Coco dress/top pattern so I have certainly got my money's worth.

I did match the plaid at the side seams, but failed to get a good photo showing this. The bias cut pockets are exact mirror images of each other and I was very happy with this detail.

The vertical darts created a nice fit through the back. I completely fluked the position of the plaid at the centre back of the collar, but love how it is nicely balanced. All the hems were hand stitched so they remained invisible.

Bias cut split lapped collar

I just love the bias cut split lapped collar. It gives the dress a bit of a retro vibe. I wish I had added some interfacing to the collar because it has turned out a little floppy in this double knit, so I will have to remember that for next time.

This will be a nice comfy work dress and I think it will get loads of wear.

Happy Sewing

Jean

Style Arc Ginger Knit Top #3

Style Arc Ginger Knit Top

I've used this outrageously multicoloured knit from Knitwit to create another Style Arc Ginger Knit Top. The fabric is still available and is currently on sale for $12 per metre. This is my third time sewing this pattern, and I doubt it will be my last. Here are the links to my first version and second version. It's just perfect for work, loose fitting, comfortable yet stylish and works well with pants or a skirt.

Style Arc Ginger Knit Top

I sewed this up on Sunday afternoon and wore it to work on Monday, so it's almost one of those instant gratification patterns. The most difficult part of the construction is sewing the pleats. I always find pleats in a knit a bit of a challenge.

This knit was only a two way stretch, not a four way stretch like my previous versions and it did alter the fit slightly. This one feels a little shorter as it has no vertical stretch. The print has quite a lot of orange in it and that's not a colour that suits me very well. I spent quite a bit of time positioning the pattern pieces on the fabric to include as much of the green and fuschia pink to offset the orange.

I love that this fabric requires zero ironing. It is so easy to care for and wear which is a huge plus when I am rushing to get out the door in the morning, heading to work.

All the hems were sewn with my coverstitch. I am wearing it here with a Style Arc Sara Skirt (which I have pegged in quite a bit at the hemline) in a black stretch bengaline. I made this skirt ages ago and is a great work wardrobe staple.

Repeat patterns are awesome and as I have made my three tops from completely different prints, I doubt if anyone, except another sewist, would realise that I had used the same pattern for them all.

Happy Sewing

Jean

Style Arc Mila Designer Dress

Style Arc Mila Designer Dress

This is a stylish design that is also quick and easy to sew. Style Arc's description: "Use your creativity to make this dress your own.  The flattering bodice seam allows you to colour block or use different textures to suit your individual style. This is a simple pull on dress with a slight cocoon shape that is so simple to make but will look amazing once done." I can't argue with that.

Style Arc Mila Designer Dress

If you are experiencing deja vue, you are right. I have used the left over knit from my Style Arc Rae Tunic for the bodice in my Style Arc Mila Designer Dress. The skirt is a crepe knit in a coordinating blue that I picked up from Spotlight. The colours didn't photograph exactly right and I assure you the skirt is blue and not purple as it appears in the photos.

Made up in a knit, this dress really is like wearing secret pyjamas. The subtle cocoon shape skims over the body, hiding any lumps and bumps and is just so comfortable.

I cut my usual size 12 with no alterations except for using a knit binding for the neckline instead of the facings provided. The length is a little longer than I usually wear but it got the hubby's tick of approval so I didn't shorten it.

I used my new cover stitch to finish off the hems, even changing the thread to blue for the skirt hem. I find if I position the raw edge directly under the stitching it goes all wonky because one needle is stitching through two layers of fabric plus the Bondaweb, and the other needle is only stitching through one layer of fabric. Any suggestions for how to overcome this issue would be most welcome.

I used a single knit binding on the neckline. This is fast becoming my favourite neckline finish for knits as it is less bulky than other bindings and always turns out so neat.

The trickiest part of sewing this dress is getting a nice sharp point at the centre front. I struggled to achieve this in the knit fabric as it all seemed to stretch out to a gentle curve when I sewed this seam. I imagine it would be more precise in a woven fabric. I top stitched the seam allowance up towards the bodice as this is the direction it wanted to lay. The crepe was quite heavy and this extra line of stitching gave it a little more support.

I'm pretty happy with how this dress turned out. It is a great pattern to experiment with some colour blocking too.

Happy Sewing

Jean

Style Arc Rae Tunic

Style Arc Rae Tunic

I chose this lovely Poly/Spandex knit from Knitwit to try out the Style Arc Rae Tunic. I love a good tunic and I have been wanting to try out the cold shoulder trend for a while now, so this pattern ticked all the boxes for me.

Style Arc Rae Tunic

Suggested fabrics are crepe, silk or even a knit. That makes this a very versatile pattern. I dispensed with the button and loop back neck closure, as it was not required. The tunic slips easily over your head (in a knit, anyway).

I cut my usual size 12, with no alterations, but in hindsight I probably should have done a forward shoulder adjustment. The tunic is quite loose fitting and skims nicely over any lumpy bits.

I like the length of the tunic...plenty of backside coverage. I am wearing it with my Style Arc Elle's in white stretch bengaline, made ages ago. This tunic only takes 85cm of 148cm wide fabric (sizes 4-16, slightly more in the larger sizes). You must have a seam at the centre back to squeeze it out of this yardage though.

Application of Bondaweb to hems

I have found when working with these slinky poly/spandex knits, the application of Bondaweb to the hems assists in stabilising the area and results in perfect stitching. I also used Bondaweb in the shoulder seams as I wanted that extra stability for the top stitching.

Sewing knits with my walking foot.

My walking foot also helps enormously when sewing with knits. It's great to learn all these little tricks and see the quality of your sewing improve. 

Loving the cold shoulder feature and it's perfectly bra friendly too. I used a knit binding turned completely to the inside, and top stitched, to finish off the neckline.

Another great feature of the Rae Tunic is the curved hem.

This photo shows the real shape of the tunic with the cut on sleeves. After wearing this to work today, I can report that it is very comfortable and I enjoyed wearing it. I have two pieces of rayon purchased recently with this pattern in mind. It will be interesting to see how it compares in a woven fabric to this one in a knit.

Happy sewing

Jean.

Style Arc Kate Dress in Leopard Print

Style Arc Kate Dress

This is my third Style Arc Kate Dress. You might say I like this style. A classic wrap dress is flattering on most figures and they always makes me feel all feminine and girly when I wear my Kate dresses. You can see the others here and here.

Style Arc Kate Dress

I did simplify the pattern a little, by eliminating the tucks in the front by cutting the side without the tucks as a pair. I found in my first version that sewing the tucks was tricky in a slippery poly knit and they were not really necessary.

I added 3 cm of length to the bodice area to lower the waistline and kept the length (including the extra 3 cm). The waist ties were lengthened so that they would be long enough to go right around my waist and tie at the front.

I was planning to have short sleeves but after cutting them out I realised that they were a little too close fitting for short sleeves. I will try short sleeves next time, adding some extra width to the pattern before cutting out. I kinda like how these "just above the elbow" length sleeves turned out anyway, and they are fine for my cold air conditioned office at work.

The fabric is a poly/spandex knit in a leopard print, from Spotlight in Queanbeyan and they still have some available, or they did last Friday when I called in. (I love it when I have to drive to Canberra for a work meeting, and the route goes right past Spotlight in Queanbeyan. I usually take full advantage.)

The neckline was finished off with some self fabric binding turned to the inside and secured with a twin needle. I used Bondaweb on all the hems which eliminated skipped stitches and tunnelling when I sewed them with a twin needle. It makes such a difference when working with these slinky poly knits. 

I'm pretty happy with my new dress and I have worn it to work twice already.


Happy Sewing

Style Arc Marita Knit Dress #2

Style Arc Marita Knit Dress

I have revisited the Style Arc Marita Knit Dress. You can see my first one here made in a printed ponte.

Style Arc Marita Knit Dress

This time I used the suggested fabric ...a two way stretch knit jersey. This fabric is from Knitwit. I cut a size 12 and added an extra 1cm to the side seams below the arm holes. I didn't want the dress to be too clingy.

The fit turned out much better than my first one. It's amazing how using the suggested fabric works so much better. Initially I thought I would run the stripes vertically, as I thought they would be more slimming that way, but then I realised the most stretch ran along the stripes so I would have to run them horizontally. I was very mindful of this when cutting out and I tried to have the darkest stripe positioned around my waist. Unfortunately the mauve stripe is not in the most flattering position.

I am very happy with the fit at the back. I tried to match the stripes at the side seams but they look a little off due to the irregular size of the stripes. They are not a constant width and sort of blend into each other. The sleeve stripes matched up quite well with the body of the dress.

The jersey sits much better than the ponte, but I do find myself fiddling with the cowl a bit. I do like the interesting twist at the waist and I like the way the stripes have changed direction on the front bodice area.

The high back collar is not interfaced and it does collapse a bit in the jersey. It might be worthwhile interfacing this bit to add a bit of structure.

This dress does show off any lumps and bumps but it is very comfortable. I wore it to work with a black cardigan and felt good all day. This is my favourite sort of work dress as it does not require ironing. It would make an ideal travel dress too. It is a quick sew but I don't know about making it in an hour, as it states on the website. I cut this out and sewed it up on a Sunday afternoon and was finished before dinner and I am a slow sewer so I was very pleased with that.

Happy Sewing