Vogue 8805 in Black and White

Vogue 8805

I purchased this pattern in the recent pattern sale at Spotlight and I was keen to try it out. There are loads of positive reviews on Pattern Review so I felt confident that this pattern would work out well.

Vogue 8805 Line Drawing

I made the long sleeve version with some changes. The fabrics I used were from my stash and had been purchased with other plans in mind, but have worked out well for this pattern. The black fabric is a ponte from Knitwit and the black and white print is a scuba knit from Spotlight. I decided not to follow Vogues order of construction, and construct the back and front of the dress separately so I could sew the side seams last, and adjust the fit as required.

I cut a size 16 which I did think might be a bit big but I wanted to be safe. In hindsight, I could have cut a size 14 as I had to sew 2.5cm seam allowances for the side seams. The back slit opening was eliminated by cutting the yoke on the fold and I removed 2cm from the entire neckline to ensure it would be large enough to fit over my head. I did away with the neckline facing purchased bias binding finish and used a self fabric binding instead.

When cutting out I added 5cm to the length of the lower panels. After trying the dress on during construction I felt that the proportions of the panels were wrong. The middle panels just looked too long. Lucky I had added the extra length to the lower panels, as I was able to remove them, cut 5cm from the length of the middle panels, and reattach the lower panels. The proportions looked so much better with this small change.

The seams joining the contrasting panels were top stitched to hold the seam allowances down nice and flat and add some visual interest. The bust dart worked out in the correct position without any changes. Normally bust darts are too high on my mature figure. Vera was a fabulous help with fitting this dress. She has been such a useful addition to my sewing room and the cost has been quickly forgotten.

This is how I wore the dress to work today. It has been the first real Autumn work day since our late run of summer temperatures. It won't be long before I will be wearing this dress styled with tights, boots and a scarf. Have you started sewing for the new season yet?

Happy Sewing

Colette Mabel Skirt & a repeat of the Style Arc Esme Top.

Colette Mabel skirt worn with Style Arc Ann T-Top. The denim jacket is RTW.

I have made the Mabel skirt from Colette Patterns several times before... see here and here, although I have not been completely happy with the fit until now. This is a great pattern for a simple knit skirt, but I have found it does need a little tweaking, depending on the fabric used. The stretch factor of different knits can vary so much.

This fabric was originally bought with the Style Arc Esme Designer Knit Top in mind. It is a gorgeous printed scuba knit that I purchased from Spotlight a while ago. It just screamed casual summer to me...specially when combined with white. I did make the Style Arc Esme Top and I managed to eke out the Mabel skirt from the left overs as well.

I made version 1, without the design seam lines on the front, and lengthened it considerably. I had planned to add the kick pleat at the back, but the amount of fabric I had left did not stretch quite that far. Instead, I created a split in the centre back, for walking ease. This seam was pressed open and then the seam allowances were top stitched down. I find scuba knit to be very springy and hard to get to lie flat, but this worked a treat. I used some left over white cotton lycra from the T Shirt to line the waistband.

Instead of just rushing ahead with this one, I decided to take my time and work on getting the fit more to my liking. I machine basted the side seams several times before I was happy with the shape. From memory, I pegged the skirt in a little from around the hip line down to the hem, to create a little more of a curve. My body is rectangular in shape, so benefits from any added curves. I also added elastic to the waistline, as I find it slips down without it. The hem was hand sewn.

Don't mind the snoozing dog.

Now onto the Style Arc Esme Designer Knit Top that was the original reason I bought this fabric.

 This is the second time I have made this top. The first one was made in a ponte knit which sewed up beautifully. This time I used this printed scuba knit. The scuba knit was not as well behaved as the ponte and I did have to unpick and redo a few bits, so overall it was a bit more fiddly to sew.

I kept the pattern pieces exactly the same as my first Esme, including the length alteration, as I was happy with the fit the first time around.

Again, I have paired it with white. This fabric combination just looks so fresh and summery to me. These denim pants are RTW purchased from Rockmans a few years ago. As my 23 year old daughter was taking these photos for me, she made the comment that "Mother's look good in white pants". I questioned why she thought that and her reply was that "she could never keep white pants clean". I thought that was quite amusing...as if mothers have some super power to keep their white pants clean...I actually find it a struggle.

The collar was cut on the bias and sits beautifully in the scuba knit, just as it did in the ponte. Don't try and skimp on fabric to cut this on the straight grain. I don't think it would sit nearly as nicely as it does on the bias.

I had a bit of trouble getting the collar points to look as good as the ones in the ponte, but they are not too bad. I had picked this side to be the one I wanted to show as it looked the best, but I somehow got confused and sewed it on inside out. Glad I persevered and unpicked it, and resewed it on the right way. 

Both these garments were sewn during my Christmas/New Year break from work. In fact, I could have called it a Sewcation. I don't think I will ever wear this top and skirt together though...far too matchy matchy. What do you think?

Happy Sewing