Knit Scout for Camping Weekend

I have some knit fabrics languishing in my stash that really need to be made up into comfy T-Shirts. Inspiration struck when I saw what Christy had made, using the Grainline Studio Scout Woven Tee pattern. This pattern is designed for woven fabrics but works equally well in knit fabrics. I needed a nice comfy T-shirt for our Valentine's Day Camping Weekend.

Roast lamb cooking in the camp oven for our Valentine's Day dinner.

This is my sixth Scout Tee, but the first time I have used a knit. I have previously tweaked the fit to suit my figure and you can read about the changes I made here.To compensate for the extra stretch, I sewed the seams at 5/8" instead of 1/2" as the pattern instructs. The only other change I made was to lower the neckline at the centre front by 5cm.

Scout Tee in a knit with neckline lowered.

The fabric is some sort of cotton jersey with no spandex. It was quite stable with a slight stretch and not very good recovery. I used a scrap of cotton/lycra jersey to bind the neckline. I turned this completely to the inside and secured with twin needle stitching. All other hems were stitched with a twin needle. I like the rtw finish this gives as it looks similar to a cover stitch on the right side. 

I love the loose fit that hides all the lumps and bumps.

This T-shirt was very comfortable to wear and I don't know why it has taken me this long to try it in a knit. I can see myself making a few more of these. I might tweak the shape of the neckline and cut it a bit wider for the next one.

Deua River

We had  a lovely camping weekend on the banks of the Deua River. Despite some rain, we also had beautiful sunshine and warm temperatures and went swimming in the river a couple of times. The water was freezing, but very refreshing.

The view from our camp kitchen.

Deua River in the morning sunshine.

After having a break from sewing over the weekend I am keen to get back into my sewing room. I have quite a few projects lined up.

Happy sewing

Another Tropical Scout Woven Tee

Here is Tropical Scout Woven Tee number two.

This is exactly the same as my previous Tropical Scout Woven Tee. The fabric is a very bright tropical print spun rayon purchased from Spotlight. I noticed that Sew Busy Lizzy used this exact same fabric for her second Holly Jumpsuit, By Hand London. She described the fabric as "This is a very soft drapey rayon… feels like heaven – looks like a Hawaiian riot!" which I found quite amusing. I tend to be drawn to bright colours and it hadn't even occurred to me that this print may be a bit over the top.

I am wearing it here with my navy Style Arc Elle Pants. These have been a great match and I have worn this outfit a lot already.

I travelled over to Perth last week to visit my daughter and grandson and I managed to pack only me made clothes (except for one pair of Capri jeans and underwear). I felt this was quite an achievement and made me realise just how much of my wardrobe I am sewing myself.

The photo above was taken at the top of Lesmurdie Falls overlooking the city of Perth. We had a lovely morning hiking down to the bottom of the falls and then back up to the top. 

I did manage a quick visit to Spotlight at Rockingham, but was a little disappointed with the choice of fabrics. I picked up a couple of pieces of a linen/cotton blend which I am planning to make Vogue 1382, and an outrageously bright floral print scuba knit, which I have yet to decide what to make. I also got a Buttersuede in khaki which will match my Style Arc Stacie Jeans Jacket beautifully. I'm thinking of making this into a skirt. Back to work tomorrow and hopefully, back to sewing very soon.


Happy sewing

My Archer of Tribulation

I have finally finished my second Archer Button Up Shirt by Grainline Studio. This was my Archer of tribulation. I had difficulties at every stage, and it is nothing short of a miracle that it has reached completion and is not laying discarded in the corner of my sewing room.

I blame most of my issues with this shirt on my fabric choice. I wanted a fine gingham so that I wouldn't have to be too careful with pattern matching. Unfortunately, the only fabric available in the fine gingham at Spotlight at the time, was a poly/cotton blend. I think it was 80% polyester and 20% cotton.

My first issue was with the fusible interfacing. I just used the same interfacing that I always use, purchased from my local Bargain Box Fabrics. They sell two types of fusible interfacing...a cheap and nasty lightweight interfacing, and a cheap and nasty medium weight interfacing. The minute I fused the interfacing to the fabric the fabric wrinkled and bubbled and shrank. I had to re-cut the collar. I did some testing on scraps but I couldn't stop the bubbling effect. In the end I decided to underline the collar and cuff pieces with another white poly/cotton fabric I had left over from another project which didn't wrinkle and bubble when I fused on the interfacing.

This fabric did not like to be sewn. The seams puckered and I had terrible trouble getting them to lie nice and flat. For this reason I decided not to faux flat fell the seams. I just finished them off with the overlocker and left good enough alone. You can see in the photo above there is something weird going on with the yoke. It wants to pull up in the centre and is creating a fold of fabric at the base of the neck. I didn't have this issue with my first Archer which I made out of a cotton voile, so can only attribute this to the fabric.

I did make a couple of minor changes for my second Archer, based on what I learned during the construction of my first one. I cut a size twelve, as before, but I cut the sleeves in a size 8. These fitted perfectly into the armsceye and are a much more pleasing width and length. I also added 5cm (approx 2 inches) to the length of the front and back, at the waistline. To try and take away the boxy shape of the shirt I tapered the side seams slightly by 1cm (approx 3/8ths of an inch) at the waistline curving back to nothing at the armsceye and hemline. I am pleased with the shape of the shirt now, still loose but a little more figure flattering.

Two piece undercollar and collar stand

As you can see I didn't give any thought to pattern matching the two piece under collar which is a bit of a shame because it would have looked really good. Must keep that in mind for the next one. Due to underlining the collar and cuff pieces there was quite a lot of bulk in these areas. Luckily my trusty Bernina powered through all the layers without a problem.

Angled cuffs

I think the angled cuffs are a nice feature. I sewed continuous plackets as instructed in the pattern but they puckered terribly. I did the best I could and tried to press the puckering out but I didn't have great success.

Pockets

The pockets also gave me grief. When I pressed the pockets before attaching them, the fabric skewed strangely. At least they did this symmetrically. I was really worried that this would be very obvious and ruin the look of the shirt, but I don't think it is too noticeable if you don't look too hard. The last job was the button holes and buttons. I had every confidence that this would go well as my Bernina has an automatic buttonhole foot and setting so that once you set the button hole length it will reproduce identical button holes over and over. Well, how wrong I was. I think I spent about three hours on these button holes and I unpicked nearly as many as I sewed. The fabric puckered so I started using a tearaway stabilizer on the back which eliminated the puckering. Then my button holes were sewing with each side offset from the other by a few mm each side. I got very good at unpicking buttonholes. In the end, I started again and reset the buttonhole length. This, combined with the tearaway stabilizer worked a treat and I was able to go ahead and complete the remaining button holes without a hitch.

Despite all my problems during the construction of this shirt, I am glad I persevered and finished it. Probably not my best sewing but at least it is a wearable garment and I have learned never to bother making this in a poly/cotton again. Next one will be a nice soft cotton shirting or maybe a linen.


Happy Sewing

Tropical Scout Woven Tee

 

Grainline Studio Scout Woven Tee with sleeves lengthened.

This is my fourth Scout woven tee from Grainline Studio. I have gradually been tweaking the pattern to suit/fit me and I am pretty happy with the fit I have achieved with this one. The neckline sits beautifully and it fits well through the shoulders. I have added length to the front and back so that it finishes at a more flattering level on my figure. I have also added some shaping into the side seams to take away the boxy shape. This is still easy to slip on without any extra openings. You can see my previous Scout posts here First, Second, Third. 

I used a pretty tropical printed rayon purchased from Spotlight. For this one I lengthened the sleeves, following the tutorial from Grainline Studio here. It was a very easy alteration to do and creates a different look and makes it more trans seasonal.

Ollie was watching me through the window.

As you can see I have made another pair of Style Arc Elle Pants, this time in white stretch bengaline purchased from Style Arc. I made no alterations from the last time I sewed these pants. I have previously made black, navy and teal green Elle pants and they have proved to be real work horses in my wardrobe. I'm sure these will not be the last pair I make.

That's the problem with taking your own photos. There is no one to tell you to pull your pants down to smooth out those wrinkles.

This outfit was an easy sew and a practical and comfortable addition to my wardrobe.


Happy Sewing

Perfecting the Scout Tee

Here is my third attempt at making the Grainline Studio Scout Woven Tee. The other two attempts have been blogged about here.

Front

I have tweaked the pattern slightly to improve the drape of the top at the front. I lengthened the front piece at the hem line, at the centre front by about 3cm and tapered it back to the original length at the side seams. This actually gave the bottom front piece quite a curved edge but it looks straight when worn.

Side view

As you can see from the side view, the hem line is hanging evenly all the way around.

Back view

I used a spun rayon purchased from Spotlight in a plain cream colour. It is a little sheer so I am wearing a camisole underneath. It drapes beautifully and I can see this being a very handy layering garment in my wardrobe.

Satin binding at the neckline

This time I bound the neckline with cream satin bias binding. It gives the top a touch of luxury and dresses up the plain cream fabric.

Repair turned into a design feature.

The first time I wore this top, I accidentally caught it on a wire fence and tore a small hole in it near the hemline. I used the same satin bias binding to repair the hole and now I have a "design feature". 

I'm really happy that I have perfected the fit of the Scout Woven Tee for me. I predict there will be lots more Scouts coming up in my sewing future. Such a great little pattern.

Happy Sewing

Tropical Tank Top

It's been a very busy week with not a lot of time for sewing, however I did manage to finish my first version of the Grainline Studio Tiny Pocket Tank. 

The fabric is a lovely tropical print spun rayon purchased from Spotlight. It has a lot of drape and was ideal for this loose summery top. I didn't add the pocket as I thought there was enough going on with this busy print.

I wanted a close fit through the neckline, shoulders and armholes, so I cut a size 8 (should be a size 12 according to my bust measurement) and did some adjustments. Using Sarah Veblen's The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting I did a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) of 2.5cm. I also lengthened the top by 6cm as I wanted it to cover my behind and be a little more tunic like. I stay stitched the neckline and armholes as soon as possible to avoid stretching these areas. After the front and back were joined, at the shoulders and side seams I had a quick try on to check the fit. The underarms felt a little tight so I scooped out approximately 1 cm from the lower half of each arm hole.

I am quite pleased with the fit I achieved with my adjustments. I will try a few more tweaks for the next one.

As you can see in the photo above, the bust dart is too high. For the next one I will try lowering it by a couple of cm. I would also like to try a shorter version with some side seam shaping so it doesn't hang so loosely.

I used purchased lime green bias binding to bind the neckline and armholes. I didn't have enough fabric left over to make the binding. Although it was a bit stiff it did work out OK.

I'm really happy with the fit in the back as well. No gaping and great backside cover. I also like the slightly shaped hemline.

Perfect outfit for date night...dining al fresco at a lovely little restaurant by the river on a very warm summer evening.

Happy Sewing

Trying Out The Moss Mini

I have noticed quite a few Grainline Studio Moss Mini's popping up on Pattern Review and lots of sewing blogs lately. As usual, I am a bit late to the party, but still keen to give it a go. Here is my version of View B: with the hem band.

I am wearing it with my Grainline Studio Archer Shirt previously blogged about here. I don't normally wear shirts tucked in or finishing at my waist as I like to hide my thickening waistline, but I thought I had better show off the details of the skirt properly.

Most unflattering photo, sorry.

I made a size 12 with no alterations. This was based on my waist measurement when I am at my ideal weight (which is considerably less than what it is now). This pattern must run large because to my surprise it fits me quite well.

I am really happy with the length. Not too short at all. I used a cotton drill purchased from Spotlight. This was probably a bit lightweight for this skirt. I have some denim and some cotton canvas that I will use for future versions.

Pockets

Back yoke wrinkles.

For future versions I may remove a wedge from the top of the back yoke. There seems to be excess fabric bunching up here.

I had a big problem with the waistband length. It was about 5cm too short for the waistline of the skirt. I rechecked the pattern to make sure I had traced off the size 12, and I had. I don't know if this is an error with the pattern or I may have stretched out the waistline during construction. I would be very interested to know if anyone else has had this problem? In order to fix this I ran a couple of rows of gathering stitches around the top of the skirt and gathered it up to fit the waistband. This is only slightly noticeable, but I found it very annoying. At least I didn't throw it in the corner in disgust.

Fly front and Snap (press stud)

This was my first fly front ever. I found the instructions quite good, although I had to do a fair bit of unpicking and resewing to get the zip in exactly the right position. I think I could do this a lot neater next time (now I know what I am doing).

Back Yoke and Top Stitching.

Funny how that excess fabric has disappeared when the skirt is on my dress form and not on me. I could have done a better job matching the yoke at the centre back seam.

Top stitching on Hem Band

I love the hem band. I have seen versions without the hem band, that have been lengthened, and they just don't look as nice. I think it is a really nice design feature and well worth the extra effort.

Side seam showing pocket .

The pocket is designed so it is easy to put your hand in but does not gape excessively. A very nice feature. I finished off the raw edges with my overlocker with purple thread. This was the closest matching colour I had. I am slowly building up a variety of colours for my overlocker, but it is a slow process.

Pocket linings and hem band facing.

The pocket lining and hem band facings are one of my favourite features of this skirt. It's almost a shame they are not visible from the outside.

Inside details including fly.

In conclusion, I enjoyed the process of making this skirt and learn't some new skills along the way. I got a pleasant surprise at the end to find out that it fits me too (when it really shouldn't). Must remember to downsize the next one as I have started my diet healthy eating and get fit campaign. Wish me luck and lots of will power.


Happy sewing

A Shapely Scout Tee

During my Christmas holidays I managed to get a little sewing done. 

Second attempt at Scout Tee

I have been keen to try Grainline Studio's Scout Tee after my last attempt was less than pleasing. I had made a size 12 and graded down to a size 8 at the hip based on my measurements and the Grainline size chart, but it turned out very roomy and boxy. It is OK tucked in but looks awful left out.

First attempt at Scout Tee

For my second attempt, I started with size 10. I added a lot of shaping to the sides. I kept the side measurements the same at the base of the armhole and at the hem. I curved the side seams in by 3cm at my narrowest point (near the lengthen/shorten line), on each side seam (both front and back pattern pieces), using my french curve ruler to get a nice smooth curve.

Size 10 with side shaping.

I also lengthened the Scout by 2cm. I think I will lengthen it even more for the next one. I must have a long torso.

Back view

Side view

It hangs a bit weird at the front hemline. I'm hoping that lengthening it further will fix this issue. I love the fit at the neck and shoulders. It's just amazing that it fits so well in a woven fabric with no darts. I picked up this fabric on sale at Spotlight quite a while ago. It is very light and drapes well, but creases terribly. Not sure of the composition, but I suspect it is a rayon. I love the bright cheerful print.

Neckline finished with self bias binding.

I even made my own bias binding using my Clover bias tape maker. I think it turned out ok, considering this is a new technique for me.

I have a few tropical print rayons sitting in my stash just waiting to be turned into Scout tees, now that I have worked out the fit, (or maybe Tiny Pocket Tanks).

Happy Sewing