Saturday, 19 December 2015

Style Arc Misty Stretch Pull-On Jean

Summer is here and I have found my wardrobe lacking in the casual pants department. I recently purchased the Style Arc Misty Stretch Pull-On Jean pattern and I had a 1 metre piece of stretch bengaline (also purchased from Style Arc several months ago with plans to make a skirt), marinating in the stash. I realised that this would be enough fabric to make a shortened version of the pants...perfect for the warmer weather.

This pattern appealed to me because of the "jean like" features included: front mock pockets, coin pocket, mock fly, back yoke and back pockets. Yet the comfort factor was retained with the elastic waist, and the ease of wear with the "pull on " style.
Style Arc Misty Stretch Pull-On Jean
I enjoyed sewing these pants in short bursts whenever I got a spare moment during the week. There are lots of little steps that fitted in well with short time sewing opportunities.

The fabric is a good quality stretch bengaline in a denim look colour, however it is much more light weight than stretch denim. It is quite stretchy and has excellent recovery. I made my usual Style Arc size 12 and these were cut and sewed with no fitting alterations.

The only alterations I made was to remove 30 cm from the hem line to create the 3/4 length. I also changed the method for attaching the elastic waistline. I had read that the exposed double layer of elastic was not so comfortable against the skin (and I couldn't buy any 3cm wide elastic), so I used the Style Arc Barb Pant waistband, which encases the elastic inside a waistband. This has worked very well and the pants are very comfortable.

I was very disappointed when I saw these photos of the back of the pants. I didn't realise there was so much wrinkling at the back. I have been trying to find out how to fix this issue but there doesn't seem to be any clear cut solutions. I think I need to add width to the back leg but I'm not entirely sure about how to do this. Should I add it to the in-seam, or the side seam, or both. Or should I cut and spread the pattern piece, adding width at the centre of the pattern piece? I welcome any suggestions or advice please.

I am happy with the pocket details. All the top stitching was done with a twin needle, as instructed. I just used a normal Gutermann poly thread in a pale grey and I am pleased with the result.

I was pretty pleased with my seam matching at the yoke considering I sewed this seam on the overlocker. Don't you love it when things work out well, when you are not really expecting them to.

Unfortunately, all the top stitching details will mostly be hidden because I will always wear these pants with a longer style top. Looking forward to your words of wisdom regarding my wrinkling issue so I can apply them to my next pair.
Happy Sewing
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18 comments:

  1. Marianne19 December 2015 at 23:53

    Are you sure it's a width issue? Last year I made jeans and I was so pleased with the fit....until I saw the back. Wrinkles-de-luxe! There was too much length up the back upper leg. Pinning out some length by forming horizontal darts seemed to solve most of the problems. It didn't save that pair of jeans, but I changed the pattern pieces and will try again! I suppose when it's the width, your side seams will be pulling backwards, I can't tell from the pictures?

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    1. Sew, Jean Margaret24 December 2015 at 13:22

      Thanks for your comment Marianne. I think you may be right. I have been thinking about this all wrong.

      Delete
  2. fitch20 December 2015 at 00:47

    Have you tried Flat Bottom Flo from Style Arc? Now that I've seen your Misty jeans I plan to merge Misty's jeans styling with Flo's back crotch curve.

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    1. Sew, Jean Margaret24 December 2015 at 13:26

      I haven't tried the Flat Bottom Flo pattern, but I have made a flat bottom adjustment to the Style Arc Elle pants which did improve the fit. After Christmas I will try some adjustments to the pattern which should reduce the wrinkles.

      Delete
  3. fabric epiphanies20 December 2015 at 05:30

    Your finishing is really good! I find jeans a nice during the week project as well.
    My best suggestion for seeing where the fitting issues lie is to lay the back pattern piece on a pair of jeans that do fit well and see where the differences are.

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  4. Sarah Liz20 December 2015 at 16:09

    I think these look lovely - and for casual, the wrinkles will not matter. I am not sure how to eliminate the wrinkles.

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    1. Sew, Jean Margaret24 December 2015 at 13:30

      Thank you Sarah Liz. I am determined to make these fit better, because they are really comfortable to wear.

      Delete
  5. KathyS20 December 2015 at 17:23

    Great jeans. Your seam matching is exceptional and the grey top stitching is lovely.

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    1. Sew, Jean Margaret24 December 2015 at 13:31

      Thanks Kathy. I was pretty happy with the seam matching and the top stitching colour had just the right amount of contrast.

      Delete
  6. Ruth20 December 2015 at 19:47

    Great idea Jean to shorten the trousers to 'summer' length - they look really stylish. Here's my tip on reducing, or even eliminating, back thigh wrinkles - https://corecouture.wordpress.com/2015/03/06/plain-and-simpler-avoid-baggy-thighed-pants/
    Hope it works for you too.

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    1. Sew, Jean Margaret24 December 2015 at 13:32

      Thanks so much for your suggestion Ruth. I will be referring to your post when I go to make the adjustments.

      Delete
  7. Alison21 December 2015 at 16:50

    I also think it's a length issue but I think you also need some more width at the front thigh. I had wrinkles not unlike those and that's what it was. Who knew? The front needs more room so is pulling the back around. That's why you have those funny little wrinkles on the front at the knee. :)

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    1. Sew, Jean Margaret24 December 2015 at 13:34

      Thanks so much for your suggestion Alison. It sounds very logical and I will be sure to keep that in mind when I make the adjustments.

      Delete
  8. Sharon27 December 2015 at 15:46

    You will always have wrinkles in your jeans, you need to sit down, however I agree there are too many. Alison's suggestion was a light bulb moment for both of us back in October. Those horizontal tucks mean you don't need that much fabric. I look forward to seeing how you work it out.

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    1. Sew, Jean Margaret28 December 2015 at 14:01

      Thanks for your comment Sharon. I am looking forward to applying all the great advice I have received, and creating a better fit.

      Delete
  9. Fabrickated10 January 2016 at 20:46

    I love this shape and length on you. Spot on. The fit issues have been dealt with by others, but yes a bit too much fabric there. Well done.

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    1. Sew, Jean Margaret10 January 2016 at 21:24

      Thanks for your lovely comment, Fabrickated. Can't wait until I sort out the fit issues, so I can make several more pairs.

      Delete

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